Do you know the secrets behind making a moissanite ring? Making a piece of moissanite jewelry requires hundreds of hours of hard work and 20 complicated processes. Today, let us explore the moissanite jewelry manufacturing process together.
20 steps to make moissanite rings
Hand-drawn design
The story of each moissanite ring begins with the designer’s inspiration. On a quiet afternoon or a starry night, a flash of inspiration suddenly flashed through the designer’s mind, and then the initial lines were sketched on the sketchbook. These lines may be entangled vines, symbolizing the lingering love; they may also be blooming flowers, implying the colorful love; or the trajectory of the stars, implying the eternity and vastness of love.
Hand-drawing is not only the embodiment of creativity, but also the transmission of emotion. Designers need to repeatedly consider the curvature of the ring arm to make them both ergonomic and show a unique aesthetic.
In addition, the layout of the main stone and the side stones must also be carefully considered. It is necessary to highlight the brilliance of the main stone and let the side stones play a proper role in setting off. Even the designer has to consider the different hand shapes of the wearer, etc.
After completing the sketch, the designer will use CAD software to convert the manuscript into an accurate 3D model. The designer must maximize the fire of the moissanite while making the structure more stable.
Carefully carved wax
Craftsmen hand-carve wax plates according to design drawings, and then use the wax solution casting method to pour out the silver plate. The mass production of wax plates requires the use of silver plates to press rubber molds.
This step can be called the “soul test” of the craft, because any flaws on the silver plate will be infinitely magnified in subsequent steps. Only silver plates with a smooth surface like a mirror and a perfect inlay position are qualified to enter the mass production stage.
Wax injection of rubber mold
When the silver plate is sent to the die press and covered with high-temperature melted rubber, a rubber mold with a ring groove can be formed. Subsequently, the rubber mold is fixed on the wax injection machine and injected with 70~75°C liquid wax. After the wax liquid cools in the rubber mold, it is gently peeled off, and a wax mold that is exactly the same as the silver plate is born.
This process seems to be mechanically simple, but it actually hides a mystery. The temperature difference will cause the wax mold to shrink and deform. Therefore, the craftsman needs to adjust the wax injection parameters according to the changes in the seasons to make the size of the wax mold exactly the same.
Selecting matching stones
An exquisite moissanite diamond ring not only comes from the brilliance of the main stone, but also depends on the contrast of the matching stones. Sorters carefully screen moissanite under a microscope and match them according to color (D to Z color grade), clarity (IF to I3 grade) and cut (ideal, eight hearts and eight arrows, etc.).
Due to its high refractive index (2.65, higher than the 2.42 of diamonds), moissanite needs to specially calculate the facet angles to release the brilliance of “rainbow flame”.
Therefore, the selecting matching stones process is like a treasure hunt. Sorters need to find the most suitable one among many moissanite loose stones. They must not only consider the quality of individual gems, but also the matching and overall effect between gems.
Complete wax pattern
Prepare all the wax patterns needed for this batch production.
Planting wax trees
Craftsmen manually weld hundreds of wax molds to wax sticks to form a “wax tree”. This step implies the jewelry industry’s awe and worship of nature. The wax tree is like a branch of life, carrying the bright fruits of the future. Afterwards, the wax tree is hung in a stainless steel cylinder, waiting for the pouring of plaster.
The process of pouring plaster needs to be very cautious and meticulous. Because the thickness and uniformity of the plaster will affect the subsequent metal casting effect.
Weighing the wax tree
The rubber chassis is weighed before planting the wax tree, and weighed again after planting the wax tree. The weight of the wax tree is calculated by subtracting the two weighing results. The weight of the wax tree is converted according to the density ratio of gold or silver to obtain the amount of metal to be cast.
Plaster pouring
Put the wax tree and the base together in a stainless steel cylinder, and slowly pour the corresponding weight of gypsum slurry along the inner wall of the steel cylinder, covering the wax tree, and place it naturally for 6-12 hours after vacuuming to solidify the gypsum.
Baking gypsum
The gypsum mold is baked for dewaxing, drying and casting insulation.
Removing the gypsum mold
Take out the baked gypsum mold and prepare the metal solution to be cast at the same time.
Pouring liquid gold water
Inject the melted and prepared gold water from the water outlet.
Plaster mold blasting and cleaning
The plaster mold after casting is in a high temperature state. After being taken out of the casting machine, it is left naturally for 10-30 minutes, and then put into cold water for blasting. After the plaster is blasted due to shrinkage, the gold tree can be taken out, and the large pieces of plaster can be brushed off with a steel brush. It is soaked in 30% hydrofluoric acid for 10 minutes, and then rinsed after being clamped out to remove the remaining plaster until the surface of the gold tree is clean.
Shearing castings
The jewelry on the gold tree is cut off along the bottom of the water outlet and dried.
Drum polishing process
Put stainless steel abrasives and active organic synthetic solution into the drum, and rub it with rotation to make the surface smooth and bright.
Calendering process
The calendering is all done manually, and a special calender is pushed back and forth on the surface of the jewelry. This process requires certain skills and techniques.
Polishing process
Use a polishing machine to polish the jewelry until the surface is smooth and bright.
Gemstone selection
The gemstones are sorted by hand to select the ones with the right color, cut and size for setting.
Inlay Setting
Under a 40x microscope, the inlay master uses tweezers to pick up the moissanite and insert it between the claws. The table of each gemstone must be absolutely horizontal, and the claws must evenly wrap the waist of the gemstone, neither blocking the light nor ensuring firmness. For group inlay styles, the inlay master even needs to arrange dozens of broken diamonds in a space of 1 square centimeter, with an error of no more than 5 microns.
The inlay process is like a battle of precision in the microscopic world, and the inlay master needs to perform delicate operations in a very small space. They must not only ensure that the position and angle of each gemstone are just right, but also ensure that the spacing and arrangement between the gemstones meet the design requirements.
Polishing and electroplating
The polishing wheel passes over the surface of the ring at a speed of 3,000 revolutions per minute, polishing the metal to a mirror finish. This process requires caution and meticulousness, because excessive polishing will damage the metal surface, while insufficient polishing will not show the luster of the metal.
For rose gold or gold styles, electroplating is also required – the ring is immersed in an electrolyte, and the current absorbs ions to form a nano-level coating.
The electroplating process is like a mysterious veil for the ring. It not only gives the ring different colors and textures, but also enhances the corrosion resistance and wear resistance of the ring. The polished and electroplated ring is like a metal that has awakened life, emitting a charming glow.
Quality inspection & Quality control
Every high-quality wholesale moissanite ring must pass 10 rigorous tests to ensure that its quality meets the standards.
- Gemstone testing: Use a thermal conductivity meter to confirm the identity of moissanite (moissanite has a thermal conductivity close to that of diamond, which can be distinguished from glass or zircon);
- Pressure test: Simulate the wearing scene, use a mechanical arm to apply a 50N force to the ring to test the deformation risk;
- Gloss scanning: The spectrometer compares the fire intensity to ensure that the dispersion value of 0.104 of the moissanite standard is reached.
- These test items are like a checkpoint. Only the moissanite ring that passes all the tests can be branded and packed in a velvet gift box.
Conclusion:
It takes 20 processes to make a beautiful moissanite diamond ring. From the designer’s pen tip to the setter’s tweezers, from the thousand-degree furnace to the micro-carving under the microscope.
Every step is the sweat and hard work of the craftsmen. It is precisely because of their pursuit of beauty and their interpretation of love that moissanite jewelry can shine more brilliantly. If you are looking for wholesale moissanite silver jewelry or customizing a high-quality moissanite jewelry, you can contact us at any time.